Return to Shi Shi Beach Wilderness Backpacking

IMG_6569

Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

3 days, 2 nights / 8 miles round trip / 200′ elevation gain

Last month my teenage nephew visited from Texas and I wanted to take him on his first backpacking trip.  I knew that Shi Shi Beach would be the perfect destination for a first timer.  We left Seattle as the sun was rising with hopes of arriving at the coast in the late morning.  As we drove closer to Neah Bay, the weather grew dreary with cloud filled skies.  The beginning of this journey was looking very similar to my first trip to Shi Shi Beach earlier this summer.  When we arrived at the day use parking area, I knew we’d be hiking in the rain once again.  After dropping off my nephew with all of our gear at the trailhead, I parked the car at the nearest private lot and walked back.

IMG_6548

My nephew and I at the Shi Shi Beach trailhead, Olympic National Park, WA

We hit the trail in the early afternoon and enjoyed splashing around the muddy puddles along the way.  It wasn’t long before we were done tromping through the mud before we arrived at the section of the trail that heads down towards the beach.  Even though I had hiked this section before, I was nervous about the additional weight I was carrying.  While I usually only carry around 25 pounds, this time I was carrying twice as much!  I powered through the anxiety and cautiously made my way down the trail.  All of my anxieties of the steep trail were washed away instantly as we stepped onto the beach.  The rain had stopped and left the sky filled with clouds.  The two of us hiked along the shoreline of the beach with plans to camp closer to Point of the Arches.  After crossing Petroleum Creek, we looked for a spot to set up camp on the beach close to our water source.

The sunsets at Shi Shi Beach are what called me back to visit once again.  I loved having the opportunity to share the experience with my nephew.  I spent over an hour of that evening attempting to build my first fire on my own.  All of the wood was soaked from the days’ rain, and it wasn’t long before I gave up.  Exhaustion from a day of hiking drove us to  the comfort of our tents early that night.

IMG_6572

My nephew watching the sunset on Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_6574

Point of the Arches sunset, Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

The next morning I was wakened by the sun warming my tent.  I let the teenager sleep in while I enjoyed my morning coffee and read a book.  I enjoyed the solitude, but was happy when my nephew finally crawled out of his tent.  I was excited to explore Point of the Arches and farther south down the beach.  After breakfast, we packed a lunch and headed out for a day of beach hiking.

IMG_6578

My nephew and I with Point of the Arches, Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_6579

View from beach south of Point of the Arches, Olympic National Park, WA

P1010279

View from Point of the Arches, Olympic National Park, WA

P1010292

Peace rocks, Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

P1010297

View from beach south of Point of the Arches, Olympic National Park, WA

P1010289

View from beach south of Point of the Arches, Olympic National Park, WA

P1010290

View from beach south of Point of the Arches, Olympic National Park, WA

P1010298

Point of the Arches, Olympic National Park, WA

After exploring the beach south of Point of the Arches, we headed towards a picnic spot in the shade near an arch.  As we were getting ready to unpack our lunch, we noticed an eagle flying along the beach.  It appeared to be fighting with another bird as it made its’ way along the shoreline.  It landed on a rock and we noticed feathers flying all around it.  That’s when we realised the eagle was preparing its’ lunch as well.  After we enjoyed our picnic, we took off our shoes and explored the tide pools in our bare feet.  The feeling of the cool Pacific Ocean and sand between our toes was welcoming on a hot, sunny day.

P1010309

Bald eagle, Point of the Arches, Olympic National Park, WA

We arrived back at our campsite in the mid afternoon, and we decided to relax beside Petroleum Creek in the shade.  I read a little more of my book while my nephew took a nap by the creekside.  Once he was rested, we played a few games including bocce ball and Pass the Pigs.  We finally peeled ourselves away from the shaded area among the trees and headed back to our sun filled campsite.  After dinner I was determined to make a fire after the previous nights’ failure.  I spent another hour trying to build a fire without success.  I had almost given up, but after one last try – I finally made fire!  As the sunset and the temperatures dropped we enjoyed the warmth of the fire into the late hours of the night.

IMG_6583

The first fire I have ever made by myself!  Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_6587

Sunset in front of a fire, Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

We woke on our last morning to a cloudy, misty day.  We decided to wait for breakfast once we got to the tree covered area of the trail, and packed up as quickly as we could.  As we packed, everything was damp and sandy.  Even though I was happy to hike under a cloud filled sky since the previous day had left me slightly sunburned, the rain was not welcomed.

IMG_6593

Crossing Petroleum Creek, Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_6599

A doe and two fawn, Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_6600

Looking down the trail back towards Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

We crawled up towards the forested section of the trail, and were happy to have our feet on solid ground.  Two days of hiking on the sandy beach had exhausted certain muscles in my legs.  The last two miles back through the muddy trail seemed to fly by, and in no time we were right back where we had started two days ago.  As we loaded up our gear into the car, the skies were opening up once again.  The drive home along the Pacific Ocean and the Strait of San Juan de Fuca was filled with blue skies and good conversation with my nephew.  I hope this is a trip he will never forget; I know I won’t.

Wildlife Wednesday 07/19/2016

Last week I took my teenage nephew on his very first backpacking trip where I chose Shi Shi Beach as our destination.  We spent the second day of our trip exploring the tide pools near Point of the Arches.  As we were searching for a picnic spot for lunch, we noticed a bald eagle flying along the shoreline fighting with another smaller bird.  After the eagle landed on one of the rocks near us, we made our way closer to try to get a better look.  When we had a better sight of the eagle, we noticed feathers flying around it and realized it was preparing to enjoy its’ lunch as well.  While it isn’t the most clear image, the eagle can be seen sitting at the top of the rock tearing at the smaller bird with it’s beak and feathers flying all around it.

Bal eagle

Bald eagle, Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

Crescent Lake Camping/Shi Shi Beach Backpacking

IMG_6207For Memorial Day weekend, my friends and I decided to head over to Olympic National Park for a few nights of car camping and one night of wilderness backpacking.  On Thursday, one of our group members headed to Lake Crescent campground to get a head start on the holiday crowd and grab a first-come, first-serve site.  My husband and I joined our friend later that evening and quickly set up camp in the dark, rainy night.

We woke up the following morning to more rain, and hurriedly set up a canopy over our picnic area.  With hopes of things drying out by that afternoon, the three of us headed to the ranger station in Port Angeles to get our wilderness permits for Shi Shi Beach the following day.  After seeing the great weather at Hurricane Ridge from the webcam in the ranger’s station, we decided to drive up the mountain for some day hiking.  It was a great morning to enjoy the views from Hurricane Ridge and watch the wildlife along the trails.

IMG_0538

A view of the Olympic Mountains from Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_6132

Friends enjoying a day hike along Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_0607

A marmot enjoying the view from Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_0586

A marmot just before it whistled, Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_0604

Two marmots at Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_0619

A curious ground squirrel along the trail, Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_0598

A deer running alongside the trail, Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_0595

A deer running quickly to get over the snow, Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_0557

A deer checking out the view from Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, WA

After a great morning hike, we headed down to Port Angeles for lunch before making the drive back to our campsite at Lake Crescent.  Once we arrived back at the campground, the weather had not changed since the time we left that morning.  Even though it was still raining, we were happy to see our picnic area had dried under the canopy.  With several hours of daylight left, we decided to explore the hiking trails around the lake.  After a short drive to the end of camp David, Jr. Road, the trailhead to the Spruce Railroad Trail came into view.  Our car was the only one parked at the trailhead that evening, and we were the only people on the trail the entire hike.  The hike is a beautiful trek along the northern shore of Lake Crescent with small sightings of the sun trying to break through the clouds.  A few miles into the hike, we were excited to find a tunnel to explore.

IMG_0630

A view of Lake Crescent from the Spruce Railroad Trail, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_0640

Mount Storm King looms over Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_0641

A tunnel along the Spruce Railroad Trail, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_0645

A tunnel along the Spruce Railroad Trail, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_0653

Exploring a tunnel along the Spruce Railroad Trail, Olympic National Park, WA

Late that evening, the remaining members of our group showed up and set up their tents in the rain just as we had the previous evening.  Once again, it rained all throughout the night as we tried to stay dry and warm inside the comfort of our tents.  We woke up to another rainy morning, where we huddled under the canopy as a group for breakfast.

Two of the members of our group had never been backpacking, and I was so excited to share my passion with them.  When planning this trip, we decided to head out for one night and test out their new gear and experience an evening in the wilderness.  The four of us spent the morning huddled under the canopy trying to keep dry while stuffing our packs with the essential gear for an overnighter on Shi Shi Beach.  We hopped in the car and headed towards the coast in the pouring rain.  When we arrived at Neah Bay to get our permits from the Makah Cultural & Research Center, it was raining harder than it had all weekend.  After the trip, every member of our group admitted at that point we were all secretly hoping the others would back out because of the terrible weather.  Instead of confessing our fears and giving up, we put on our happy faces and hit the trail.  The hike is was very muddy as expected, and it was funny to watch day hikers try to avoid walking in the muddiest parts of the trail.  I felt like a kid again tromping down the trail in the pouring rain.

IMG_6154

Shi Shi Beach Trail, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_6155

Shi Shi Beach Trail, Olympic National Park, WA

As we neared the beach, the most difficult part of the hike appeared before me.  As the rain and sweat poured down my face, I feared the steep section of the trail in front of me.  In spite of my slight fear of heights, I made my way down the trail repeating to myself, “I can do this, I can do this, I can do this.”  It wasn’t long until we reached the bottom and I felt a huge sense of relief.  Now it was time to head towards the Point of the Arches and find a suitable camping spot.  We realized quickly that even though we desired a camping spot in the woods seeking protection from the elements, the only spots available were on the beach.  For the first time since we drove into Olympic Mountains days ago, the clouds started to dissipate and the rain disappeared.  We found a great spot amongst the driftwood to set up camp near a small creek to use as a water source.  Life was good.

IMG_6171

Point of the Arches viewed from Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_6180

Delicious, filtered creek water, Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_6178

Dinner on Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

IMG_6185

Shi Shi Beach sunset, Olympic National Park, WA

P1010135

Shi Shi Beach sunset, Olympic National Park, Wa

P1010145

My friends enjoying their first evening of backpacking, Shi Shi Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

Besides one small rain shower in the early evening hours, the rain never returned.  We slept soundly on the beach and woke up to sunny skies.  After packing up, we were excited to  explore the tides pools surrounding Point of the Arches during low tide.  I have never seen more sea stars and anemones in my life!

P1010153

Point of the Arches tide pools, Olympic National Park, WA

P1010175.JPG

Point of the Arches tide pools, Olympic National Park, WA

P1010166

Point of the Arches, Olympic National Park, WA

P1010179

Point of the Arches, Olympic National Park, WA

After a quick lunch among the driftwood on the beach, we made our way back towards the trailhead.  Unlike the day before, we were now protecting ourselves from sunburn!  The part of the hike that pushed my fear of heights the day before, seemed much easier going up (and the fact that it was dry also helped.)  As we hiked along, my friends discussed future backpacking plans and I knew I had given them a great first overnight wilderness experience.

We arrived back at our campsite at Lake Crescent happy to find our area warm and dry.  All of the luxuries of car camping were at our fingertips once again.  We enjoyed the company of good friends by a warm fire stuffing our faces with s’mores and beers.  I slept better that evening than I had the entire trip.  The next morning the sky was still filled with sunshine, allowing us to dry out all of our wet gear before stuffing it into the car.  It’s always a little sad to pack up and leave your camping home away from home, but I knew I had many memories to take me back whenever I needed.